The borders

We decided to add this page as their seems to be limited information on the costs incurred at border crossings, both at arrivals and departures. We have found some to be very expensive.

We hope that this information will help future overlanders with what to expect to pay at the various border crossings.

If anyone has any information about the borders we are still to cross, please send us an email.

Since our passports were checked for the first time in Romania, I'll start there:

Romania

Arrival - You must display a compulsory vignette (13 Lei) bought at the border.

Departure - Another vignette is paid on departure. We had spent all our Romanian currency and used Dollars, but at a poor rate. It cost $9.

Bulgaria

Arrival - Headlights are to be switched on at all times in Bulgaria. You purchase a vignette at the border for $7.

Turkey

Arrival - The visas cost $20 each, but the fees differs according to your nationality. We didn't have a green card that covered Turkey so bought 3rd party insurance for 36 Lira.

Departure - You pay 5 Lira to a man that gives you a docket for your car. 

Syria

Arrival - Total cost here was $165, for a diesel tax and insurance. The breakdown was not clear. We bought this before going to customs from the bank (exchange bureau). We used our carnet for the first time here.

Departure - A departure tax is charged at SP500 each. The ticket must be bought before your passport is stamped. They prefered Syrian Pound but would accept Dollars. Also paid 300 SP for the vehicle to exit the country.

Jordan

Arrival - The friendliness is clear from the first Jordanian your see, they are very helpful to tourists. The compulsory 3-day 3rd party insurance cost us 9.97 JD. Customs fees were 20 JD. There is a cash machine and exchange bureaus at the border by the duty-free shops. We found out at departures that we were supposed to have our carnet stamped, which we didn't. Don't make the same mistake. Luckily the customs official was in a good mood.

Departure - Aqaba - We took the midnight slow ferry from here to Nuweiba. Tickets cost $345 for 2 adults and a car ($60 pp). Buy tickets on the second floor of the building then have your passports stamped. This was not obvious to us, but you must obtain a 'permission to export' certificate from the customs office on the ground floor and have your carnet stamped here. No cost for this. There are exchange bureas at the port but no cash machines.

Egypt

Arrival - Nuweiba - The immigration side is done on the boat as you arrive, your visas are checked and passports stamped. Take your carnet with you as it is checked and you will get a pink form that is given to the customs official at the port.

Once you leave the boat you drive up a ramp and someone checks under your car. Then, you park under a car port and the long (4 hours) customs process begins. You are greeted by an official, or what we assumed to be an official. It turns out he is a 'compulsory' fixer, he speaks English and charges EP200 for his services. It is highly recommended that you accept his help as the process would be damn near impossible without it. The other cars were all searched, ours wasn't. There is a good 30 min wait between each step and we were told to wait in the car. There is a cash machine available near the customs offices. Total cost was EP 1345 (£180). We paid local currency and were given 2 reciepts, both in Arabic. We also signed a declaration that we had no alcohol in the car. Someone also came to check if we had a fire extinguisher and gave us a docket and warned us not to loose it.

Customs  - EP 510

Insurance - EP 520

Paid to some guy who checks your chassis and engin number - EP 10

Paid to some man who signs the customs forms - EP 15

For Egyptian number plates and an Egyptian license - EP 100

Copies of their documentation - EP 30

'Fixer' fees - EP 200

Departure - Aswan

You do not need a fixer for this, very easy to do yourself. First see Mr Salah (tel. 018 316 0926) in the Nile valley water transport corporation office, near the police station. Mr Salah is very helpful and will tell you exactly what you need to do to deregister your car before you buy the tickets. First go to the traffic court (GPS coord N 24.05.043 E 32.54.502) and ask for 'barra zama'. This is a declaration that you have not had an accident in Egypt. You'll need a copy of drivers passport and Egyptian licence (E£2). The men will try to charge you E£25 for this service, do not pay it, the service is free, only pay for the copies.

Then go to the traffic police (N 24.03.693 E32.53.153). You enter through the back of the police station, this area is behind the counters. Here you hand in your licence plates, drivers licence and the slip you got from the traffic court. 10 mins and a mandatory chat about football later, you are on your way. (no charge for this either).

Then go back to Mr Salah's office, show him the docket you got from the traffic police and you purchase your passanger tickets for the ferry. (2nd class E£311 each)

On Monday we will purchase the ticket for Zulu to go on the barge (E£ 2002) and go through customs and immigration at the port. We were told they cost E£25 and E£3 respectively. Will let you know how that goes...

As promised, the customs cost E£25 and it cost E£3 to have our passport stamped. There was an English speaking staff member of the ferry company that pointed us in the right direction and told us what to do.

Sudan

Arrival - Wadi Halfa

We debated over making use of a fixer. We ended up Using Mr Mazir Mahir. He seemed to be the only way of communicating with the captain of the barge to find out the ETA. Total cost (including fixer fee) is S£ 90.

Departure - Gallabat

Immigration and customs are very straight forward. Customs cost S£ 25, we used a combination of Dollars and S£. Try not to get there during prayer time as the customs official will dissapear for a while.

Ethiopia

Arrival - Metema

The immigration hut looks very unofficial, it is a mud hut with sleepy official if you can find him. Customs buildings are across the road. There were two banks that were closed. We didn't pay anything. Customs officials half-heartedly searched our car. Be sure to have a good football chat with the officials. The customs office only opens at 8am. Total time around 1.5 hrs. 

Departure - Moyale

Easy and straight forward. Took around 30 mins, nothing to pay.

Kenya

Arrival - Moyale

Friendly and helpful staff. Quick and easy, nothing to pay. There is a sign in the customs office that says 'It is my duty to serve you, please do not bribe me'. Enough said.

Departure - Lunga Lunga

Again, nothing to pay, quick and easy. Brand new immigration office, all computerised.

Tanzania

Arrival - Horohoro

Visas cost $50 each. Customs and insurance cost $25. Enjoy the free borders whilst they last!

Departure

Quick and easy, nothing to pay. Friendly officials.

Malawi

Arrival -

Yellow fever vaccination certificate is checked here. Easy and starightforward, nothing to pay.

Departure - Mwanza

Easy and straightforward. There is a Standard Bank and a Western Union at the border, where you can buy Dollars.

Mozambique

Arrival - Massano

Prepare for thr harrasment. The money changers and street vendors are very persistant. We bought compulsory 3rd party insurance at $23. The rest was quick and easy. 

Departure - Geriyondo

Border in the Limpopo national park. If you can, try this border as the other borders are full and you'll queue for hours. Here, the staff were friendly and there was nothing to pay.